There’s one more type of shoe leather you should be aware of: shell cordovan. Shell Cordovan from Horween. A well-made pair of full-grain leather shoes will last through half a dozen resolings and twenty years of wear. Above all, each piece is different. Sign up and be the first to hear about news, sales, and giveaways! Bored of counting likes on social networks? The quality and desirability of SC is not opinion–it comes straight from the horse’s mouth (OK, fine…maybe a bit farther in the back). Boots. you can tell because of the creases that are pronounced. Cut the Fat: Wear shell enough and you’ll start to notice white streaks forming around the creases. Damn. This sounds like magic! All leather tanning is a brutal, labor intensive process (thank you Youtube for giving me the willies), but with SC it’s even more so, and those who have perfected it are somewhat tight-lipped about their process. The retanning process is responsible for most of the leather characteristics in terms of tactile and other sensory qualities (look, feel, smell). Alden Shell Cordovan shoes are made with Genuine Shell Cordovan leather from the famous Horween Tannery in Chicago. The first step, depending on how dirty or soiled your cordovan leather shoes are, is to clean them. The Barrie last is known to fit 1/2 size bigger, and it's usually... Q. Sign up for our free newsletter below! (Yes, there are a few smaller tanneries in Italy and the UK, but Shiniki and Horween do most of the heavy lifting. The Official Alden Thread for 2021 - Share Reviews, Sizing, Advice, and Photos. Each piece of leather is a natural product and the food-grade fats we use are also natural products. Designed and built to last a lifetime. 100% made in USA using old-world techniques. But there are the others, and the names have largely been chosen by the … Truth be told, there is a bit of magic involved. Image via Style Ledger. Image via Lord Point. (c) 49 Oz. Cordovan definition is - of or relating to Córdoba and especially Córdoba, Spain. Alden Leather Defender; Allen Edmonds Heel & Sole Edge Dressing ... As you can tell from the hand stitching around the apron of the shoe, ... and smooth out the surface. How do you “hot stuff” oils and waxes into leather? First things first, the word “cordovan” refers to both a color (burgundy-ish, brownish red), as well as a particular type of leather called “shell cordovan.” In the case of Wolverine’s 1000 Mile Cordovan No 8. boots, the word “cordovan” refers to the color of the boots and not the leather material. For dry shell, it just takes time and patience to get it re-hydrated. leather so special that it commands $500 or more per pair of shoes. Shell Cordovan boots coming into their own. The process is specifically different from other fat liquor methods used where emulsified oils/fats are used to condition and nourish the fibers of the skin — the steam heat is not required to melt the oils/waxes/grease to penetrate the fibers.”. We even offer free shipping and returns, and a complimentary extended year warranty on all watches, so you can be confident you’ll be happy with your purchase. Much like 24oz Iron Hearts or a Rolex Submariner, SC leather is a rugged product that develops a spectacular patina over time. That’s due to the way shell cordovan is made. It’s reputed that the SC Alden uses for its shoes (don’t try them on unless you want to buy them because once you try them on you will have to buy them) goes through a six-month tanning process, and Nick Horween confessed very little to me, other than the facts that the formula they use was developed by his great great grandfather in 1905, and they still use the exact same process today. The shell cordovan colours below are the most popular across our customers. Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? The HODINKEE Shop is an authorized retailer of new watches from a growing but carefully curated set of brands. To clean it up, lightly dampen a rag with a small 50/50 mixture of distilled white vinegar and water. (Years ago, when I was still in college–the late’s 80’s…1980’s thank you–I bought a pair of SC wing tips from Florsheim, only to sell them on eBay after years of very heavy wear for more than I paid for them.). shell cordovan will not crease. The natural finish of Shell Cordovan produces an extremely durable leather, renowned for its strength and mirror-like luster. ), in the land of leather, there can be but one true king. You do this to chromexcel leather as well right? are most of the usual suspects (Alden, Allen Edmonds, Viberg, Rancourt, Carmina, Winter Session, Tanner Goods), but with a price for the leather hides being somewhere in the neighborhood of $100 per square foot, this is not a material many mom and pops can afford to put on their shopping list. Carmina Shoes - Definitive Thread (reviews, advice, sizing, etc...). Shell Cordovan Watch Strap by Horween Leather. The companies making SC shoes, etc. Cordovan leather is mainly used for high-end shoes. We are a small family owned tannery that focuses on traditional methods of vegetable tanning processes that can take up to 3 months to produce the leather. By partnering directly with the brands we carry, we guarantee 100% authenticity of everything we sell. A few millimetres below the surface of the skin, there are two round pieces, which have a highly-compressed fibre … Often called shell cordovan, this leather is made from the “shell,“ a membrane on the part of the horse that goes over the fence last. This is interesting for a number of reasons and not just because I’ve just typed the words Visigoths and  “rump” for the first time in my professional career (and in the same sentence no less). For a shoe that will last a lifetime, look no further than our Cordovan leather shoes! Don’t miss a single Heddels post. Shell Cordovan Boots by Alden. Accessories are less common for SC, so when you do see a maker willing to give up one of Trigger’s cheeks for a bag or batch of wallets and watch straps, expect to pay dearly (and be thankful). Cordovan is a rich shade of burgundy and a dark shade of rose.Cordovan takes its name from the city of Córdoba, Spain, where the production of cordovan leather was first practiced by the Visigoths in the seventh century. Only the leather from the rear flanks of heavy workhorses is suitable. SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread, The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions, Johnston & Murphy Crown Aristocrat Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers, YEOSSAL 15OZ ONE WASHED PREMIUM SLUB SELVEDGE DENIM, Oliver Spencer, Casual Blazer - New Wool - Used - Size 36, Purple Eleventy Peak Lapel Loro Piana US40, Mens Boglioli Sweater Gray Virgin Wool XL NWOT Made In Italy Slim Fit, Jil Sander One-size Chunky-knit Shetland Wool Turtleneck Sweater Vest, SOLD❗️PRADA Tech Stretch-Knit Logo Polo Shirt Red IT48/S-M. House Of Representatives Passes Bill To Incentivize Domestically Produced Textiles In The U.S.A. Pigeon Tree Crafting Kicks Off 2021 With Its fourth Santalum Collaboration Boot, Japan Blue Patches Up Another Indigo Bear. Stay up to date with the latest on new releases, features, and new shop products by subscribing to our free daily newsletter. Unless someone somewhere finds a real live dragon and is able to make shoes from it, shell cordovan (SC) is about as close as you’re going to get. Answer (posted by @Chris Waffles): Shell cordovan leather does not form creases (or microcreases) like calf does, instead forming ripples. Items crafted from it command a high price, with shoes usually at least a 50% premium over other high-end leathers. But there are the others, and the names have largely been chosen by the Horween company itself. there will be a bend in the leather, but no horizontal creases. The natural dyeing and finishing process results in a beautiful leather with deep colors. The term cordovan leather applies to the product of both the tanned fronts and tanned butts, but … This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. Career and job listings in fashion, mens clothing, Reviews of Classifieds and classifieds sellers, http://putthison.com/post/5219725232...thers-are-made, http://www.styleforum.net/t/268468/the-shell-cordovan-non-alden-shoe-and-boot-thread/1995#post_8264435. Each piece of (SC) leather is a natural product and the food-grade fats we use are also natural products. Fun fact: SC doesn’t crease (ever seen a horse with a wrinkly butt? Ashland Leather wallets are made from world famous Horween shell cordovan. The luxurious shoes in the cordovan collection boast the most coveted type of smooth leather in the world, processed by the Horween tannery in Chicago. (Jacket). Suffice it to say, the supply of SC leather is much lower (like all horsehide), creating high demand with prices to boot. Shell Cordovan Hide by Horween Leather. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Suffice it to say that SC is in a class by itself, and if you only buy one new pair of shoes this year (and then never any other year), make them Shell Cordovans. Regions that include horse in their diet are scarce and that’s just the beginning of its rarity. As for the colors this leather comes in, it’s relatively limited, and most stores tend to stock mostly a classic oxblood cordovan (aka #8) and black. Image via Horween. What does a "formal" wedding dress code mean? 2011 - 2020 | All Rights Reserved, Kiriko Pays Tribute To Japanese Toys With Its Mingei Calendar. Haven't been to a wedding since I was about 16. Image via Hodinkee. Preorders, Group Made-to-order, trunk shows, and o. Horween Shell Cordovan is one of the most exclusive luxury good materials on the leather market today. Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2020 - News, Pictures, Clothing, Accessories, etc. “Truth be told, there is a bit of magic involved. Specifically from the thickest part of the horse hide, the rump. At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis. Most leather hides come from the entire animal, but shell cordovan is made with just the hindquarter of a horse, also … Shell Cordovan Wing Tips by Florsheim. Our Cordovan Collection is made with the World’s Finest Horween Shell Cordovan leather. How do I take care of lambskin leather? Horween Leather's Shell Cordovan is an extremely durable leather processed by hand in Chicago, USA. OK, stop thinking about it and try to strike the phrase “Hot Stuffing” from your memory. You must log in or register to reply here. And while it remains to be seen who’ll be the last (wo)man standing…make that sitting, on the Iron Throne, I for one don’t need Dinklage whispering in my ear that I should bend a knee to Shell Cordovan, the undisputed King of Leather. How does PayPal "pay after you receive the item" feature work? From the outside, shell cordovan … Image via GQ. As for the colors this leather comes in, it’s relatively limited, and most stores tend to stock mostly a classic oxblood cordovan (aka #8) and black. Classic knee-high and ankle boots with elegant leather outsoles or robust rubber lug profile soles combine comfort and style. Next, follow these six steps to polishing your cordovan leather shoes: Step 1: Brush shoes with a Horsehair Brush. Image via Vcleat. Whereas most leather companies utilize the hides from the whole cow and often divide one hide into many layers, essentially getting multiple quantities of thinner, inferior quality “leather” from one hide (though none you’ll likely read about here–we’re full-grain-leather-company people), SC comes only from horses and only from one isolated section of their posterior. The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its durability. If they’re lightly soiled, use just a little bit of water and a Horse Hair Shoe Shine Brush to brush off any type of dirt or soiling that may be on the surface. Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today! see photo here– This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by Ryanne. Image via Pinterest. Shell Cordovan is a staple material of fine men’s shoemaking, but you may wonder what makes this kind of horse (!) Former Affiliate Vendor Threads; a Locked Forum. If you are able to handle the leather, one way to identify shell is that scratches that would leave a permanent mark on calf are easily removed with a … Check out my chat with Nick Horween about SC and his family’s leather legacy.). JavaScript is disabled. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Hot stuffing is a process done by very few tanneries in the world…technically part of a retanning process where we reintroduce fats/greases/oils to nourish the fibers of the skin. ), so it’s a natch match for shoes and boots. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. Unlike most shoe leather, made from cow hides, shell cordovan is made from horse hides. SC comes from the flat muscle (or shell) beneath the hide on the rump of a horse, a tanning practice first explored by the Visigoths in seventh century (Cordoba) Spain. The (non-exhaustive) list as follows, with special thanks to Keikari: Top Left to Right: Color #4 (a very reddish brown), Gunmetal (dark and metallic grey), Ravello (medium brown) Vintage Brown (darker than Ravello but lighter than cigar), Navy, and Green, Left to Right: Saddle (very light brown), Ruby (red), Cognac (mid-brown), Burgundy, Black, Green. The hide is cut at right angles to the backbone and the resulting pieces termed a "front" (the forward part) and the "butt". But no matter where you get your SC goods (I vote a shoe in a classic silhouette), do yourself a favor and save up to see what all the fuss is about. Crockett & Jones has seen an increase in the popularity of all Genuine Shell Cordovan styles, to the point that many of our cordovan loving customers regularly ask us to develop new styles using the material. That’s the leather’s fat getting expressed through the surface. An Alden shoe made with shell cordovan leather will last a very long time. There is a science to tanning leather but sometimes it is more akin to cooking. Produced with a centuries old leather tanning process that uses the highest quality raw materials and takes up to six months to complete. Just last week, Viberg released a SC boot with a price tag of $1100…and it sold out in less than a minute! Shell Cordovan Wallet is a limited edition wallet, handmade in Chicago, IL, designed to celebrate American craftsmanship and the art of the leather tanning process. This video showcases the shell cordovan pit tanning process at Horween Leather in Chicago. The term cordovan has come to describe the color of clothing, leather in particular; in this sense, the use of cordovan overlaps with that of oxblood. Due to relatively limited supply and time consuming tanning process (more on that in a bit–brace yourself), there are only two well-regarded tanneries in the world producing SC: Shinki in Japan, and Horween in Chicago. Shell’s location on a horsehide. I'm a guest. “For hot stuffing we start by steam-heating wooden drums, add retanned or veg tanned leather, and add a special blend of greases, waxes, and oils that are all propriety to Horween and mixed in house special for each product we make. I guess that’s not bad when you consider that SC is so durable (ironic that it’s almost exclusively used for non-working footwear), those Vibergs will serve their new owners for the rest of their lives, and those of their lucky heirs as well. Are Gurkha Trousers A Trend Or Here To Stay? Cordovan has long been regarded as one of the most exquisite and desirable leathers available in the world.The leather is cut from a very small area of the hide - the hind quarters, generally known as the "shell".This oval shaped shell has a very tightly bound grain structure, with little or no stretch. We offer shell cordovan in amazing colours - pure aniline finishing, no pigments or varnishes are used, only natural biodegradable products, blends and mixtures. We have a full circle production focus that starts with the raw hide and finishes with the final product. Since a horse paid with its ass, it seems only fair that you pay through the nose. too bad, they’re not. Much like in Game of Thrones (why should we be the only Web site not stealing a bit of their fire? The result is a durable leather with an extremely smooth finish and beautiful shine. Each wallet's color, and the Horween Leather stamps on the wallet's interior, will be unique to the piece of Shell Cordovan used. 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