an upper thigh, join together. Nowadays we see less and less seam lines on Gunpla kits, thanks to Bandai’s ever improving engineering. Stress Marks: Discolored areas on the kit, where the plastic was stressed. As you can see on the picture, shoulder armors on HGGT RX-79[GS] are identical. Hopefully the examples below will give you some idea how to approach and think about these mods. Hey, I have a question about the process you guys use for painting parts, in particular when gluing pieces together. So for either the hardcore zaku 2 fans or for those who want to practice their advanced gunpla building and detailing skills then this kit is for you. Gunpla Seam Line Removal Full Version! There are several ways to fix seams in model kits. Once dry, sand it flush and repeat this step if needed. I also had to shorten the face mask a bit. When you prime your kit, go over all seams again as a lot of the time, seams can seem to be invisible and can't be felt but as soon as primer is added, the bits missed will show up clearly. User account menu • Assembled! This method allows more precision, letting you avoid applying glue onto details, which may ruin them. Last thing you want is fixing the seams, only to realize you can’t put the part back on the kit. This workshop will be covering basics for Gunpla and Plamo modeling like seam line removal, panel lining, top coating and so much more. The magic of model cement (vs super glue) is that it is a chemical reaction where by you are melting the plastic itself (the cement is basically an acid to plastic). As such, seam line removal is a skill that’ll probably never go out of fashion. It gives you much more working time, so you can apply it over the entire area before it starts to dry. As always our workshops are free but seating is limited. Seam - A part of a model where two halves of a section, e.g. The first job is to remove the seam line and any scratches. My choice is a. Common in older kits This hard wearing sandpaper can be used dry like normal sandpaper or with water. Dragging melted plastic across the surface is a rather bad idea. For now, I hope you found this guide helpful. Gunpla - Gundam Plastic Models. Those round pegs at the elbow make it impossible though. To deal with it, I had to measure the distance from the seam line to the edge of the piece, and then scribe a symmetrical panel line on the other side. Method 3 - The Putty technique. What works best for one person, may not be what works best for another. Plastic cement will fuse two halves into a single part. First off, we need to apply glue to the parts. Apply very little pressure and repeat it until the panel line has a uniform depth once again. Most common ones will be the gaps and other imperfections where seam lines didn’t close properly. Gunpla Tutorial: Easiest Way to Remove Seam Lines - YouTube Do everything you can to remove seamlines on subassemblies right away. While most common, it’s also the one that requires most modding to make sure the parts can be reassembled. So if you missed our first community workshop here is your chance to join our second one. Main purpose of these mods is retaining the ability to disassemble the kit for painting after seam removal. It also creates a slight gap between them and the armor, making it look consistent with the knee joints. To Visit our website for further information, Link: www.gundam.my. It should look smooth after all that sanding. Use the clamps to hold the part together until the glue dries. Usually they involve altering the way the parts connect, without affecting kit’s appearance or articulation. Best way to go about it would be for the finished piece to slide in from above. When assembled, one seam line will be at the front, while the other in the back. It gets tricky, when both sides of the body use the same pieces, rather than mirrored ones though. CHAPTER 52: Administrative Procedures for the Construction Codes of the Dallas City Code These recently adopted codes can be purchased on-line at the International Code Council website. Some clamps to squeeze the parts (not pictured); (Optional) Your preferred scribing tools; Most common ones will be the gaps and other imperfections where seam lines didn’t close properly. Most of the time you’ll need to figure them out for yourself. Those do not warrant the same design effort as RGs, MGs or PGs. Using glue is the most common method of seam removal. More advanced builders usually remove them using plastic cement and/or putty. In most cases though, it’s much easier to hide those seam lines rather than remove them. I've heard people who use cement will apply it, then squeeze the outer-frame parts until the melted plastic "gushes" out, then you sand that part down to a finish. It’s usually a good idea when one or both ends of the part have a female polycap. Now for some seam line removal, masking and detail painting/weathering (slight) .. this guy will be ready to snipe some feddies! This plastic lip is something we actually want, as it shows the parts have joined together well and there won’t be much need for putty later. With some effort, the parts will look like they were a single piece from the very beginning. Mostly present on cheap / old kits. You might be tempted to clean this plastic lip right away, especially in panel lines and other detail areas. Also saves a lot of time, as you don’t have to worry about modding the part to fit them in later. All in all this kit was ok, it's great for practicing seam line removal, painting, creating battle damage effects, and weathering. The cheering had gradually died down … @Goldsickle seam line removal? Another issue you might come across are removed panel lines. This is brilliant.. or Simply Whatsapp us at 018-988-2022.Follow us now on: Facebook - www.gundam.my/fbInstagram - www.instagram.com/gundam.my/Website: www.gundam.my Now it's time to prime. Before we get there though, let’s take a look at the tools we’ll need, as well as three basic seam removal techniques. Excellent stuff. Can you reassemble them after gluing or do they require some extra mods? Damaged by Design © 2020. Moving on, announcing seam line removal, styrene cement, dehydration confirmed. Using the Madworks zero chisel, I cut the round details from the main armor piece. Whether you are looking for paint, lawn & garden supplies, hardware or tools, Ace Hardware has everything you need! As you can see, the armor pieces sandwich over the elbow joint, with each half connecting at two points. So what are the nubs anyway? So for either the hardcore zaku 2 fans or for those who want to practice their advanced gunpla building and detailing skills then this kit is for you. If you’re going to paint your kit, spray some primer on the parts to help you spot mistakes. Most times fixing them is simple: a little bit of cement and sanding will be enough. This is actually the best primer (pun intended ) on paints... What if the peg joint isn’t broken, but merely stressed? Thank you! Community Workshop: Gunpla Basics. Repeated test fits will tear it off. Well, nubs are new / bad gamers, so nub management is very important. First separate your Gunpla (torso, head, arms, legs, waist). For seam line removal is same colored nubs melted in cement. Whether painted or not, a seam line running down the middle of an arm or a leg never looks good. you really don't need to do that unless you're fully painting a kit.Yeah, but the dude in the video does it by melting the plastic from the runners with cement and using that as a … Removing seam lines is one of the essential skills when building and painting your Gunpla. So we have to either paint and install the face first, or mod it, so it can be mounted from the bottom instead. Basic idea is to place the guide (usually plastic tape) along the panel line and lightly drag your scriber along it. Make sure the parts hold together well, as any movement may crack the paint afterwards. It’s faster, at the cost of precision. WIP. [Gunpla Tutorial]Learn how to remove seem lines now with our tutorial Video! 1. Just one tip i could suggest regarding below. I marked those in red on the second picture. This is a really nice Gundam you made here! I was building a cleaver for an Efreet... Great tutorial. All in all this kit was ok, it's great for practicing seam line removal, painting, creating battle damage effects, and weathering. I combined scribing and covering methods to hide the seam line on the head of my Barbatos Nemesis. This involves extra-thin cement, sanding, and puttying as required. Construction varies from kit to kit, so usually there are no prescribed solutions. Hope you get something out of it ! Sometimes it’s unavoidable. Since scribing is a huge subject, which requires its own tutorial or two, I won’t be covering it here in detail. For rounded ones use a circular motion and, preferably, a soft sanding sponge. That said, they’re still present on many cheaper kits – SDs, HGs, as well as some NGs. Sand away until the glue has gone and the seam line cannot be seen or felt with your fingernails. I'm REALLY glad you... Hey, sorry for being late with comment approval, I've been on... Hey. This created space for the armor pegs, allowing the glued piece to slide in. See reviews, photos, directions, phone numbers and more for the best Roofing Equipment & Supplies in Dallas, TX. Although a little messy, it works best with water so all of the sanding was done wet. Line them up and squeeze really hard. To do so, we’ll need to turn the T-shaped piece into a peg, as well as cut out any obstacles which might block the movement – both inside the head and on the face piece itself. If you want to use the eye sticker, hold off until final assembly. Big downside of those is obviously a giant seam line, running across the entire head. Seam Line: Gap where two halves of a section (that should ideally be a single piece, like gun barrels) connect. The trick to this technique is gluing only half of this extra piece, on one side of the part. Inspect the parts carefully, see how they go together. I'm no pro, but each kit will have some line work you'll need to do. I'll watch some videos of gunpla part repair and seam line removal tonight at work to prep myself for Thursday. Method 2 - The Shaving technique. Leave the other half hanging over the edge. Just trying to figure out a better process so that I'm not masking off loads of the inner frame. Updated February 13, 2018. Method 1 - The glue and sand technique. Really appreciate all the info. This was one of the most annoying parts of HGGT Gundam Ground Type-S build. The dreaded shoulder... Great DIY article. Since the cut was a bit rough, I had to use some epoxy putty to make them fully round again. Learn how your comment data is processed. No need to be fancy about it – just cut off excess plastic with your nippers and sand the leftovers flat. You can see that the seam line was completely removed.,yet the surface was rough. It’s common when they have other parts mounted inside them. Nub removal is one of the most important techniques to master. I'm building a RG Sinanju, and i'm planning to custom paint it. I'm sure you will! Another way to apply glue is to put the part together first and then drop it into the gap. One way to deal with them is to paint the parts and assemble them. It’s a fundamental not only for Gunpla building, but in all branches of scale modeling. Just be sure to wash your hands afterwards. My choice is a homemade plastic putty. Seam lines are often the second most glaring issue on the kit – right after nub marks. As with nub removal, use a stiff sanding stick, fine flat file or a sandpaper wrapped around a file/piece of plastic for flat surfaces. Many HG Gundam heads come in two pieces – front and back, with the face mounted from the inside. It’s perfectly safe, as the plastic they’re made of doesn’t react with cement (and most other chemicals). This is the part where we need to use the finishing sand paper. As you can see, I leave some polycaps inside. Those are: gluing, scribing and covering. Don’t worry if it’s loose, you can always glue it in during the final assembly. Mine was numbered 1200. The solvent glue works to melt the plastic and when the parts are pressed together, they are effectively welded together and become one whole piece. Vacuum furniture; including areas behind paintings, dressers, desks, floors and carpeting with a heavy duty HEPA vacuum paying special attention to cracks and crevices along the seam line of the carpet, and baseboards. So I'm glad I didn't buy that instead. You can apply it to each part separately, but keep in mind that thin cement dries rather fast. Then for panel scribing is tamiya fine engraver .2mm. Drag your scriber lightly along panel line a couple times and you’re pretty much done. This section is very useful during the seam line removal process. As the parts are pressed together, a bead of plastic ooze will seep out along the seam line and applying constant pressure to the seam while the glue cures ensures that a full weld forms. Next up, I had to mod the inner pieces – simply trimming the top edge so it looks like a cross rather than a square. Apply generously to both ends of the part you want to join. We need to do something about them. In the last few years, Bandai has been doing a great job hiding seam lines and using nice crevices to make them look like panel lines, but there’re always a few spots here and there where the seam is noticeable. Leave it be. If you don’t want to paint your kit, you can make it from spare runners to match the color of the piece. Interesting, thanks for the insight. Thank you... No problem and thank you very much. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Quick and easy. Seam line removal. This video talks about seam-lines and probably the easiest way to remove them, by using modeling cement. Yeah, it should prevent it from breaking. With some cleanup and a pin wash, it’s impossible to tell one of those panel lines houses a seam line. They fit right into the elbow pegs and can be mounted independently. Thanks! While most common, it’s also the one that requires most modding to make sure the parts can be reassembled. Never knew the... Not really, unless you use this goo to re-cast the part... Would this work to repair a broken articulation? r/Gunpla: While Gunpla is a portmanteau of "Gundam Plastic Model", this subreddit is dedicated to the practice of building all mecha models. Log In Sign Up. Metal Roofing Supplies in Dallas on YP.com. Here's another tutorial ! If you are going to glue pieces together and remove the seam line, how much of the inner frame to you keep on underneath it? Don’t worry, if the plastic runs out of the seam line. We can do so by scribing panel lines into them, or by covering them up with extra plastic. Another way of hiding a seam lines is adding extra piece on top of them. Seam lines are often the second most glaring issue on the kit – right after. Problem is, they need to be separated to mount the face in. Excellent info. We’ll need to fill those with putty. The amendments (see above links) are available online at no cost or for purchase ONLY at the Oak Cliff Municipal Center, 320 E. Jefferson Blvd., Room 118; Dallas, TX 75203. Here you can see all the parts I trimmed. Just a few simple tips and you will make you Gunpla/Model kit into a World of difference. I felt like the way the extra thin works, by running into the seam lines almost like a wash when painting, was not what I wanted. As with anything in modeling there are always alternatives and techniques people prefer over others. With seam lines removed, we must now inspect the parts for any obvious mistakes. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Next, use the alligator clips to hold the part by its connector piece. Some pieces simply cannot be glued together, usually because keeping them separate is essential for assembly. For bigger surfaces, consider using thicker, slower drying glue instead. This is also the only method which physically removes the seam lines, while the other two only hide them. 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